11 thoughts on “How to Sand Teak Pt. 1 – First Mate Yacht Care”
I need the contact number?
if you have deep grooves keep grinding at p 120 p 80 is too rough for your
wood keep speed at a little over 50% and keep moving till its all clear
Dan, Glad you liked the video. I would love to look at some pictures if you
would like to bother, otherwise I will answer as best as I can with the
information given. If you want a great finish, with a deck that feels
amazing under your feet, you are going to want to get the deck sanded
flush. However, it is not worth having a smooth deck, if you have sanded
through your caulk (seams), bungs, or even the bungs in some spots!
+1 for NOT sanding. Your removing a layer every time. Salt water and an
occasional cleaning with pine Sol works wonders.
Hi, i liked your video. I am sanding my teakdeck myself right now. I
encounter some problems because the grooves in the teak are so deep that I
cannot sand them flat with 80 grit. What advise would you give me on
getting a smooth teakdeck? Should I use 60 or even 40 grit on my Festool
150 or a beltsander? I hope to hear from you. Greetings, Daniel
@ExpressSWE Alexander, Using the wider throw (1/4″) will be more
aggressive. I tend to believe that the shorter throw (1/8″) is going to
leave a cleaner finish. Try starting your rough grit with a wider throw,
and finishing with the short throw, and see if you have preference.
@pjottr1 I tend to agree with you, but after spending some time with the
Teak Decking Systems crew, they go after decks with 36grit! and big 8in
rotary wheels!!!
there is no need to oil or sand your teak…just clean with a brush and
salt water…unless your fresh water sailing.
@wendan20 Dan, Glad you liked the video. I would love to look at some
pictures if you would like to bother, otherwise I will answer as best as I
can with the information given. If you want a great finish, with a deck
that feels amazing under your feet, you are going to want to get the deck
sanded flush. However, it is not worth having a smooth deck, if you have
sanded through your caulk (seams), bungs, or even the bungs in some spots!
I know that you’re going to finish up with an oil finish. I’m hoping to
avoid the frequent reoiling work necessary. I’ve been planning on using
Sikkens but recently have run across the UV cured finishes and now I’m
thinking of using that product. Have you any experience with these other
products and/or an opinion of them?
Question: What is the shiny black material in the margin between the
Toerail and the Teak?
I need the contact number?
if you have deep grooves keep grinding at p 120 p 80 is too rough for your
wood keep speed at a little over 50% and keep moving till its all clear
Dan, Glad you liked the video. I would love to look at some pictures if you
would like to bother, otherwise I will answer as best as I can with the
information given. If you want a great finish, with a deck that feels
amazing under your feet, you are going to want to get the deck sanded
flush. However, it is not worth having a smooth deck, if you have sanded
through your caulk (seams), bungs, or even the bungs in some spots!
+1 for NOT sanding. Your removing a layer every time. Salt water and an
occasional cleaning with pine Sol works wonders.
Hi, i liked your video. I am sanding my teakdeck myself right now. I
encounter some problems because the grooves in the teak are so deep that I
cannot sand them flat with 80 grit. What advise would you give me on
getting a smooth teakdeck? Should I use 60 or even 40 grit on my Festool
150 or a beltsander? I hope to hear from you. Greetings, Daniel
@ExpressSWE Alexander, Using the wider throw (1/4″) will be more
aggressive. I tend to believe that the shorter throw (1/8″) is going to
leave a cleaner finish. Try starting your rough grit with a wider throw,
and finishing with the short throw, and see if you have preference.
@pjottr1 I tend to agree with you, but after spending some time with the
Teak Decking Systems crew, they go after decks with 36grit! and big 8in
rotary wheels!!!
there is no need to oil or sand your teak…just clean with a brush and
salt water…unless your fresh water sailing.
@wendan20 Dan, Glad you liked the video. I would love to look at some
pictures if you would like to bother, otherwise I will answer as best as I
can with the information given. If you want a great finish, with a deck
that feels amazing under your feet, you are going to want to get the deck
sanded flush. However, it is not worth having a smooth deck, if you have
sanded through your caulk (seams), bungs, or even the bungs in some spots!
I know that you’re going to finish up with an oil finish. I’m hoping to
avoid the frequent reoiling work necessary. I’ve been planning on using
Sikkens but recently have run across the UV cured finishes and now I’m
thinking of using that product. Have you any experience with these other
products and/or an opinion of them?
Question: What is the shiny black material in the margin between the
Toerail and the Teak?